Niijima Sept 18-20

We arrived via high speed Ferry to Niijima on Friday right before a (then unknown to us) Typhoon. Our friends living in Kyoto, graciously arranged for us to stay at a local bed and breakfast near the beach. We could write a whole post about the owners of the B&B including details on chain-smoking, bickering, generosity and home-made sushi that would have been worth a fortune that could be served at any Michelin-rated restaurant....but we'll stop here in telling you that it was all that and more...

Niijima is a funny, exotic and wonderful place. As we were visiting off-season, we mostly had the place to ourselves. We counted all of 5 white people on the whole Island. Niijima is a favorite vacation destination for ppl living in Tokyo and we are told it is incredibly busy during the summer season because of its proximity to Tokyo (less than 3 hours away) and its rich history...

The best way to describe Niijima is that is a place that really makes you feel like you are in some sort of Indiana Jones movie...

It is not only beautiful...but full of great things like tons of fresh fish (making for incredible food) and a slow languid pace of life (not to mention a strange and slightly bizarre surf-culture complete with marijuana-leafed souvenirs and Bob Marley posters). And one of the best parts....no one is in hurry is Niijima.

We spent our weekend riding bikes back and forth across the Island, swimming, trying to communicate with the owners of the B&B and quite frankly feeling astounded....at the raw beauty of this place that was so close to an urban center yet felt so foreign and exotic to us.

Native blooms

The coast line with a slight outline of the public onsen (hotsprings) where we spent a fair amount of our time...

Better shot of the onsen...

More beach. There were kilometers upon kilometers of various colored sand, we swam on one of the beaches, the water was salty and warm and the surf was fun and strong. The rest of the time we spent simply gazing at the waves...and no, it never got repetitive....

As the weekend went on, we noticed with only slight worry that the weather network (which was all Japanese) seemed to be announcing some bad weather off the coast of Tokyo.

It was pretty rainy and windy (which sucked for biking) but as we did not understand Japanese, it was difficult for us to figure out that it might actually mean something bad, especially in terms of our return. We figured out that it *might* mean something when we finally understood (though diagrams) that all flights and boats on Saturday were canceled (we were intending on leaving on the Sunday ferry)! With a bit of confusion, much beer and alot of pointing and drawing and even a phone call to a bilingual relative in Toyko, we finally were able to exchange our boat tickets for a direct flight to Tokyo as we were told that this was likely our only chance to get off the Island. We took it.....

About two hours before we left...we decided to make one last trip to the beach, the surfing beach. Erik was riding his bike ahead when all of a sudden he heard a gigantic crash and some screaming. The rusty metal clip which held the basket over the front wheel of Natalie's bike snapped (does this REALLY surprise you?), causing the basket to get jammed into the wheel...and causing Natalie to go head over feet over the bike. See results below...

Yes those are actual tears (the damage to Natalie's face actually got much worse than it appeared after the swelling set in, more pictures later) but she took it in stride and decided to enjoy her last couple of hours on the Niijima. It was, after all, rather hard to not feel better when you got to recuperate in a place that looked like this.

Next stop Kyoto!

Love to everyone
Natalie & Erik